Written on May 1, 2011
It’s mornings like this that make me feel like a lucky, lucky man.
I sprang out of bed at around 5:30 without an alarm. A fun size swell running with favorable wind and tide triggered my internal clock to rise at dawn. I made my way to the beach and wasn’t the least bit disappointed. Not only were shoulder high sets lining up on the horizon but the air was mild and the morning light was incredible.
On the downside, the water is still shockingly cold. So after getting sufficiently high on the beauty of sunrise, a couple smacks in the face with frigid walls of water was quite sobering. But the good thing about a hooded 6 millimeter wetsuit is that when your face is not submerged you don’t even feel the cold. And it is so buoyant that between sets I sometimes push my board aside and float on my back sensory deprivation tank style and stare at the sky. Watching seagulls while being massaged by the ocean’s surface.
Sitting in a spot where over the past couple months I’ve found a really good left hand peak has formed I was able to score several waves similar the one pictured directly above. On a couple of them my drop came late and I ended up a little behind; the pocket just out of my reach. But on several I managed to be in the right place at the right time and got them for all they were worth. That is a good feeling.
And to top it all off - I leisurely came in from my session, changed out of my suit, snapped a few pics, and still arrived home around the time my family was getting up. So we got the kids ready, went out to breakfast and proceeded with our Saturday agenda of cleaning, shopping, ballet class, yard work, and plenty of outdoor play. I am a lucky man.