Dry Spell Ends
Written on March 5, 2010
After a pretty long dry spell, during which my wetsuit hung next to the furnace getting crustier and crustier, I finally got some waves last Sunday afternoon, then some more this morning. This morning was particularly good, with a stiff (and bitterly cold) offshore wind and consistent sets in the head high range.
Worth mentioning is my very last wave this morning. I knew my time was up. The 9 o’clock hour was approaching and I had to get to work. A large set had came through and lured me outside. It was breaking better on the inside, so I was about to turn and paddle in a little ways when another good sized wave showed on the horizon. So I held my position and waited. When the time came I turned and paddled and made the almost vertical drop. It was a right so I turned backside and looked over my shoulder to see the lip feathering perfectly just above my head.
From there on out it was a lazy but fast ride with five or six top to bottom turns and one full on cutback - dodging a few surfers along the way. On the inside I finally met up with a section that was closing out so I took one more turn at the lip and then pointed it straight for the beach. Crouching down, then falling onto my stomach, I was able to stay in front of it and ride that same wave all the way to dry sand. That just doesn’t happen very often.
Filed in: Surfs Up.